[TC]² Technology Communicator

Seams Review

By Gloria McConnell, [TC]²

The global economy requires a universal standard for communicating construction requirements. The standards began as a government response to the need for procurement starting in 1926. The federal government published the final seam classifications in Federal Standard 751a, 1965 and can still be downloaded free as a pdf file. This article will provide an overview of the seam classification system that can now be found in ISO 4916. The ISO defines and illustrates the requirements for each. 

In a previous article we clarified the definition of a “stitch” as a formation of thread for the purpose of making a seam or stitching. In that article we reviewed the 8 classes of stitches recognized in the ISO standard. A “seam” consists of a series of stitches used to join two or more plies of material together.  “Stitching” consists of a series of stitches used to finish the edge or to make a decorative stitch on a single ply of material. There are four classes of seams and two classes of stitching.

Seams and stitching classifications are identified by alphanumeric codes. The first part of the code has two or more uppercase letters which denote the class of seam. The Seams Standard has four classes:  Superimposed (SS), Lapped (LS), Bound (BS) and Flat (FS) seams. There are two Stitching classes: Ornamental (OS) and Edge finishing (EF).

The second part of the alphanumeric code has one or more lower case letters which denote the type within the class. These types are generally alphabetical: a, b, c…

The third part of the alphanumeric code has a number that represents the rows of stitching. This portion may be confusing. Some people refer to it as the number of needles or lines of thread, but that is not always correct. For example, a 406 cover stitch has two needles and one looper. From the face side of the fabric the stitch looks like two rows on the topside, on the bottom the cover thread connects these two rows.  This is the signature configuration for the stitch and is considered to be “1” row.  A 401 chain stitch has one needle and one looper.  It is common to have a multi-needle machine producing multiple rows of the 401 stitch. In this case, there is only one needle in the signature configuration of the stitch, so the number of rows is equal to the number of needles.

Now that we have analyzed the alphanumeric code, let’s look at each component.

As stated earlier, the Seams Standard has four classes:  Superimposed (SS), lapped (LS), Bound (BS) and Flat (FS) flat. To assist in describing the seams, I will use the example of one or more sheets of typing paper.

The description for a Superimposed seam (SS), states that this class of seam has a general characteristic that the plies or material are superimposed and seamed with one or more rows of stitches. To depict the type SSa – take two pieces of typing paper, align them together. If this represented two rectangles of fabric, you could join these two plies on any one of the four sides, a specified distance from the edge, and this seam would be an SSa. If it were done with a lockstitch, it would be a 301SSa-1. If it were done with a 504 stitch it would be a 504SSa-1.  An example would be joining a sleeve inseam. 

To depict the type SSb – take one of the two pieces of typing paper and fold one of the long sides close to the edge. Now put the two pieces of paper back together with the folded side aligned with the non folded long side of the second piece.  If you joined this edge with a single needle lockstitch, the code would be 301SSb-1. If you joined it with a double needle lockstitch, it would be a 301SSb-2. 

To depict the type SSc, fold the long edges of each of two sheets of paper, align the folded edges and join. You can see that within each class, variations are added and assigned the next lower case letter of the alphabet. There are over 50 different types in the superimposed class.

The description of the Lapped seam (LS) states that this class of seam has a general characteristic that the plies of material are lapped and seamed with one or more rows of stitches. Take two sheets of typing paper and place them side by side on the table in front of you. Take the left sheet and lay its right edge over the left edge of the right sheet.  If this were two pieces of fabric you would stitch the two plies together where they overlap. This describes an LSa. 
           
The difference between an LSa and an LSb is that on the LSb one of the edges has been folded before it is overlapped onto the second sheet. Once again each variation is assigned another alphabet. 

The felled seam found on jeans or shirt seams is a type LSc.  If it is joined with a single needle lockstitch it is a 301LSc-1; if a double needle 401 is used it is a 401LSc-2.  There are approximately 100 different types in the lapped seam class.

A Bound seam (BS) is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of one or more plies of material and seaming the binding strip to the material with one or more rows of stitches. This is usually accomplished with a folding device, especially as the seam becomes more complex. In the type BSa, the binding edges are not hemmed and the binding is wrapped around a single ply edge. The BSb varies in that one edge of the binding strip has been folded under. And on the BSc, both edges of the binding fabric are folded under. There are approximately 20 different types of bound seams described in the standard.

The fourth class of seams, the Flat seam (FS) is described as being formed by seaming the abutted edges of material together in such a manner that the stitches extend across and cover, or tend to cover, the edges of the plies joined. The edges of a flat seam do not overlap at the needles. To demonstrate the FSa seam, place two sheets of typing paper on the desk in front of you. Slide the two long edges together until they touch along the edge. If these were fabric pieces, the stitches would cross over both edges and connect the two sheets. In an FSb, one edge has been folded before it is aligned to the edge of the second piece. There are less than 10 types of flat seams described in the standard.

The seams described above, all join two or more plies together. Stitching deals with a single ply. There are two types of stitching: edge finishing (EF) and ornamental stitching (OS).

The first class, edge finish stitching is as it implies, stitching a series of stitches at or over the edge of material that may or may not be folded.  An example would be to serge the edge of a panel to prevent fraying. Edge finish stitching also applies when the edge of the single ply of fabric is folded over itself and stitched such as hemming a bottom. The type EFa depicts a hem with a raw edge when stitched. Type EFb, commonly known as a clean finish hem, has the edge folded under when stitched.  Type EFc is a special fold used when blind hemming.  And EFag is the flat single panel with the edge serged. There are less than 10 types in the standard for this class.

The second class of stitching, Ornamental (OS) is described as having the general characteristic that a series of stitches are embodied in a material either in a straight line, a curve, or following a design, for ornamental purpose. Examples would be embroidery, monogramming and smocking. Type OSa is a flat single ply with a decorative stitch, following a design.  OSb is a flat single ply in which a ridge has been formed and the thread encases a cord. OSc is like the OSb only without the cord. An example would be sewn in creases. The OSf type describes the sewing of darts, a single ply folded on itself and stitched. There are less than 10 types in the standard in this class of stitching

Customer specifications will provide the seam widths and tolerances to produce the garment. By using the proper coding there is no ambiguity in translating construction specified by the customer. As with the stitch classifications, it is recommended that apparel buyers and manufacturers use seam sketches with dimensional notations as a means of specifying seam and stitch requirements.

For further information, reference ISO 4916.

Gloria McConnell is a manager in the Industry Services group of [TC]². The group provides consulting services in many areas of the industry around the globe. Often beginning with a Plant Assessment and/or a Business Process Analysis, the Industry Services team provides on-site training and development in Lean Practices and Organizational Culture, as well as Industrial Engineering. For further information on these and other valued services, please us our contact form.

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SPESA 2010
CUTTING / SPREADING / BUNDLING OVERVIEW

By Gloria McConnell, [TC]²

Second in a series of articles focusing on the new technologies observed at the recent SPESA Expo 2010 show in Atlanta, GA.

In support of [TC]²’s Cool Zone 2.0, Gerber Technology and their subsidiary Virtek Vision International showcased several new products. The GERBERcutter® DCS3600 with ContourVision™ automatically scanned and cut complex graphics and shapes for seamless material processing. The full width ContourVision™ scanner evolved from TargeVision which was developed format cutting, identifying borders of different materials. The demonstration used fabric that was digitally printed and cured immediately in front of the feeding system. As the fabric is fed into the process, the system identifies the borders around the pattern pieces. Cut files are created “on the fly” eliminating the need for development prior to cutting. Digital camera technology is mounted on the cutting beam to identify the targets. In the demonstration, the camera identified the white areas between digitally printed pattern pieces, then moved inward to find the black borders. Since the overall pattern piece had been identified there was no problem following any black lines that may extend into the fabric print design.  Fabric may be skewed or stretched and the system will still cut on line. The DCS3600 single ply continuous cutter cut the pieces to the user’s specification.  These pieces were then sewn into small tote bags with web handles, which were given as promotional items at the show.

In the Gerber booth LaserKit, LaserID  and  LaserQC were two new featured technologies. The Virtek LaserKit was integrated with the GTXL multiple ply cutter to demonstrate kitting of multiple parts in the bundling process. The laser system extracts text data associated with nested plies and identifies the parts in sequence for pick up. This eliminates the risk of picking errors that can occur when like parts are located in the same area of the cutting table. The system is more cost efficient than overhead projection systems. LaserID uses a cordless printer that doesn’t tie up the cutting head for labeling.  It prints as operators are picking. LaserQC 1200 is a flat part inspection system which eliminates the need for a library of templates that can introduce subjectivity into the inspection process. Pieces are placed on the surface, scanned and compared to corresponding CAD files.  Any discrepancies or areas outside tolerance are highlighted.
Statistical data is captured and automated documentation capabilities are included.

New this year, Eastman demonstrated the MPC-5000™ multi-ply cutting system and a 250 pound capacity Saber spreading system. The MPC-5000™ is an automated reciprocating straight knife cutter capable of cutting up to 2 inches of compressed material. This cutter is one of the most efficient in the market, cutting up to 60” linear per second. The system is one of the quietest available and also minimizes power usage.  The Eastman Eagle™ is the latest low ply CNC conveyor cutting system.  Also of interest was a multi-roll carousel which can be placed at the end of the table. The carousel has a 12,000 pound weight capacity and holds individual rolls up to 300 pounds. The carousel is available in a wide variety of configurations.  Eastman also featured their wide selection of manually operated cutting machines and software.

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[TC]² Activity
FESPA 2010 – Digital Textile and Garment Printing

By Kerry King, [TC]²

FESPA, the Federation of Screen and Digital Printers Associations, held their annual European trade show in Munich in late June of this year.
I had the opportunity to attend in support of [TC]²’s ongoing investigation of technology solutions for digital textile printing and coloration. This year’s event showcased a variety of systems for the screen, digital, and fabric printing industries. The exhibit spanned five halls within the Messe Munich trade show center and in addition to vendor exhibits there were several ‘innovation theater’ locations that provided educational sessions with a focus on textile and garment printing applications.

Innovation Theater Programs and Vendor Displays

Fresener’s Fabric Programme was coordinated by Scott Fresener from T-Biz Network. Fresener was one of the primary speakers and addressed technologies and strategies for digital direct to garment or ‘DTG’ printing.  Additional speakers addressed topics of relevance to screen printing and wide format digital textile printing. The following is a brief synopsis of the sessions attended and the technology documented on the show floor.

Direct to Garment (DTG) Printing
During the DTG segments Fresener delivered a summary of the current state of hardware and pigment ink chemistry for DTG. He indicated that there continues to be a range of hardware solutions for DTG that have been re-engineered from Epson desktop devices. He acknowledged that the use of white pigment for printing on dark shirts has been one source of reliability issues for Epson based machines.  However, he noted that newer ink formulations making use of encapsulating technology has helped to keep white ink from hard settling.  In addition, vendors are also addressing this issue through ‘mixing mechanisms’ that stir or shake the white ink to maintain the dispersion.  He suggested that the Epson machines generally perform well if maintained appropriately.  In addition to Epson based technologies, Fresener also described equipment with more robust engineering including solutions from Brother and Kornit and noted the variation in equipment pricing as a result of greater system engineering. 

Many of the hardware solutions he pointed to could be seen within the trade show halls including technologies from AnaJet, Brother, DTG, Karl Gröner, Kornit Digital and MS Macchine.  A number of these providers showed technology for both printing and garment pretreatment.  Of note were solutions from Kornit Digital (http://www.kornit-digital.com/) who demonstrated the concept of on demand and mass customization for garment printing. Visitors to the booth could select from a group of print images, add type, select garment color and then place their order for production on Kornit’s dual platen ‘Storm’ printer.  Customers could then watch their garment being printed and were able to take the garment away at the end of the curing process.

Technology by DTG (http://www.dtgamerica.com/) was also of interest. This company demonstrated the strategy of add-on technology for ‘re-mixing’ white inks in combination with their Epson-based print system. The images below provide a front and rear view of one DTG model that incorporates this strategy.

In addition to hardware systems, Fresener also highlighted business opportunities, processing challenges, and emerging strategies for production imaging on garments. He emphasized that garment pretreatment is a requirement for imaging on dark fabrics and can also be used on light fabrics to achieve optimal color results. He suggested that development of pretreatments may be the key to enabling quality printing on a range of synthetic/athletic fabrics that do not currently print well – particularly in dark shades. He also emphasized the importance of dwell time during the pigment curing process as the key to obtaining sufficient color fastness results. The images below illustrate Brother’s GT-781 dual platen technology and Viper pretreatment machine, one of several pretreatment machines shown by vendors at FESPA this year (http://www.brother-usa.com/garmentprinters/).

In terms of order processing for DTG printing, Fresener noted that a number of companies are currently able to achieve production scale capacity. This is accomplished through redundancy of printing equipment and software solutions that process orders and direct jobs to specific print queues based on garment color and/or other relevant categories. He illustrated a pod arrangement of machines in which a single print specialist is responsible for executing the printing stage. Once the printing action is completed, the specialist transfers the printed garment to a conveyer dryer situated within the pod for curing.

Roll to Roll Digital Textile Printing
In the roll to roll category for digital textile printing, the innovation theater program included a session by Sophie Matthews-Paul who illustrated fabric printing applications through samples and photographs. Her overview highlighted the growth in digital fabric printing for signage and related applications and she also pointed to the potential for interiors. 

Systems supporting the growth of the soft signage sector were well represented at the show with roll to roll format technology displays from vendors including AGFA, ATP Color, d gen, Durst, Eurotech, Inkwin, Mimaki, and Mutoh. Konica Minolta, MS Macchine and Zimmer also showcased wide format digital print technology with sample prints illustrating an eye toward conventional textile applications such as fashion apparel and interior décor.  While SGP Prints (Stork Prints) did not showcase printing hardware, this company did have a booth for marketing various solutions. Many of the vendors listed are now offering more highly engineered systems in terms of robust performance and print rate.  A number are also offering a selection of technology solutions or options based on substrate flexibility (e.g. belt transport), media width (i.e. superwide capabilities), and/or speed (modular approach to printhead arrangement). 

Visit [TC]²’s InkDrop Printing ‘Technology Links’ page http://www.inkdropprinting.com/links.htm to view an extensive listing of current vendors for both hardware and ink chemistry.  The images below represent a small sample of the technology documented at the FESPA show: 

AGFA’s JETI technology (Spectra Printhead from Fujifilm Dimatix, Inc.)

MS Macchine’s JP6 Printer (Kyocera Printhead)

Zimmer’s Colaris Printer (Seiko Printhead)

Finishing Technology
With respect to finishing technology, solution providers including SETeMa and Rimslow were present. SETeMa demonstrated their new I-Fix unit, designed for in-line heat fixation of sublimation chemistry. Rimslow indicated that the company’s washing technology now supports the ability to apply softeners. Also, tension control strategies have been incorporated into the steam/wash system to support easier processing of knits.

SETeMa’s I-Fix Technology

Printhead Technology
Within the education sessions, Vince Cahill of VCE solutions further addressed roll to roll digital textile printing, focusing on current applications, technology solutions and printhead development.  Cahill illustrated the modest growth of digital printing for textile applications on a global basis and pointed to advances in printhead technology that are paving the way for increasingly production oriented solutions. He noted that developers are starting to tailor printheads to the application, implying the opportunity to develop improved compatibility between the printhead and various chemistry types.

Cahill pointed to the use of printheads for textile applications from vendors including Epson, Seiko, Konica Minolta, Ricoh, Fujifilm Dimatix, and Kyocera. He highlighted the trend toward developing larger arrays (banking of printheads) to support single pass printing and increases in speed.  Among vendors on the show floor, there appeared to be an emerging trend away from Epson printheads in favor of more industrial options. Ricoh seems to be capturing some attention with vendors including Mimaki and Sawgrass currently offering solutions based on this technology and ATP Color indicating their intent to introduce an apparel oriented textile machine with Ricoh technology in months to come.  Representatives of Konica Minolta also spoke of technology advancement highlighting their development of a ‘multi-functional’ printhead that can be used to deliver pretreatment chemistry in addition to inks.

In related news, Cahill pointed to the recent announcement by Regianni (manufacturer of both conventional and digital textile printing equipment) and Xennia (digital print technology integrator/parent company TenCate) regarding the completion of a full scale demonstration model of what they describe as, ‘a revolutionary diagonal multi pass digital inkjet textile printing system’. To learn more, visit the news release on the Xennia website:  http://www.xennia.com/uploads/100625-PR-Reggiani.pdf.

Ink Chemistry
The growth in soft signage and direct to garment printing appear to be closely linked to the growth in sublimation and pigment based chemistry offerings. These chemistry types are now available from numerous solution providers with a number of pigment based options coming out of Asia. Vendors including Chromoink, Digitex, Free Radical Chemical, Huntsman, InkBank, InkTec, Inkwin, INX Digital, ITINK,
J-Teck, Kiian, Sawgrass Technologies, Sensient, SPG Prints (Stork Prints), and Xennia were all advertising ink chemistry for textile applications.

Eco-friendly continues to be a growing theme within the ink chemistry community with sublimation and pigment printing being marketed as ‘greener’ options for print providers. Vendors including Brother have gone to the effort of having their pigment offering Oeko-Tex 100 certified.  Although my primary focus was digital technology I did note that within the screen printing arena numerous vendors advertised phthalate and/or PVC free inks.     

Fabric Live! Fashion Show
In response to tremendous interest in textile and apparel applications for digital printing, FESPA organizers coordinated the Fabric Live! Fashion Show that illustrated products and capabilities from a small group of sponsoring vendors. Building on the ‘Catch the Wave of Innovation’ theme for this year’s trade show, FESPA offered a series of beach t-shirts that were available for sale in support of charity. The shirts demonstrated emerging capabilities for direct to garment and a selection is shown in the photos below. Click on the images to view larger versions.

As one of the sponsoring vendors, ink company J-Teck (http://www.j-teckusa.com/)  illustrated the use of sublimation chemistry for athletic apparel taking inspiration from South Africa’s hosting of the World Cup Soccer. On the fun side, World Cup Soccer held great presence at the show with many vendors displaying soccer themed demo items and attendees clogging isles at various points to catch a view of key games one or two vendors were showing on large screens.

In Closing
As we continue into the second half of 2010, look to hear more about FESPA Americas 2011. This show is scheduled to take place February 24th – 26th in Orlando. It will be interesting to see if textiles play a significant role within this exhibition. For those that are interested in digital printing, also take note of SGIA’s annual show that takes place October 13th – 15th in Las Vegas. 

Kerry King is responsible for managing applied research and consulting opportunities in areas related to new product development, garment fit and sizing, and application of digital textile printing and 3D garment development technologies. Kerry oversees the operation of [TC]²’s digital print service and is a recognized speaker and author in the digital textile printing field.

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In Memoriam
Dr. Kenneth K.K. Wang MBE MBBS

By Mike Fralix, [TC]²

In February of this year we mourned the loss of Alan Li, who introduced me and others at [TC]² to many people in Hong Kong. One of the first individuals he made sure I met in 1990 was Dr. Kenneth Wang. I never made another visit to Hong Kong without making a point to visit him and listen to the vision he continued to have for his company and the industry he served for many years.

I was saddened when I learned of Dr. Wang’s illness while at the Prime Source Forum in March. As you might imagine, I was even more saddened when I received a note from his daughter, Janice, notifying me that this world-renowned expert in the apparel industry passed away on June 25, 2010.

Dr. Wang graduated with an MBBS from the Guy's Hospital Medical School in London in 1973. From there, he returned to Hong Kong in 1974 to run his family's garment manufacturing operation, Sterling Products Ltd, which is a multi-national children's wear company. In 2001 he founded Alvanon and guided its progression into a global leader in fit solutions and efficient supply chain management for the apparel market.

His work was recognized globally, and in response to his efforts, he was named a Member of the British Empire in 1996 by Queen Elizabeth II.

Dr. Wang held positions in numerous educational institutions, including Chairman of the Clothing Industry Training Authority and a council member of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. He was active in trade associations and was the Vice Chairman of the HK Garment Manufacturer's Association and a Textile Council member. In community work, he was Vice Chairman of Project Concern, a nonprofit organization for medical and dental care in Hong Kong. Dr. Wang's expertise in the apparel industry was utilized by the Hong Kong government where he held the positions of Chairman of Clothing Technology Demonstration Centre and Chairman of Apparel and Textile Quick Response Centre, among others.

I know you will join me in paying tribute to such an outstanding industry leader.

Sincerely,

Dr. Mike Fralix
President and CEO

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Member Profile - Wacoal America, Inc.

By Karen Davis, [TC]²

Wacoal America, Inc., of Lyndhurst, New Jersey, designs and manufactures intimate apparel in the United States, Japan, Asia, and Europe. Its product line includes bras, panties, underwear, shape wear, and day wear.   

Wacoal is a leader in designer intimate apparel made from exquisite laces, embroideries, and the finest fabrications, tailored to create the perfect fit. The company spends months developing every bra and panty design, guaranteeing perfection and customer satisfaction. The designs are a combination of European elegance and a comfortable American fit. Wacoal manufactures an extensive size range starting from a petite 32AA to a full size 44DDD which are sold in a number of upscale US retailers including Bloomingdales, Dillard's, Macy's, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as UK retailers such as Brown Thomas, Fenwicks, and Harrods. 

In June of 1956 Wacoal’s founder, Koichi Tsukamoto, visited the United States to study the intimate apparel industry.  He took all that he learned back to Japan and started his own resoundingly successful lingerie company: Wacoal.

 In April 1985, the company built on its extraordinary success in Japan and throughout Asia by starting Wacoal America. Designing exceptional lingerie that really fits, providing exemplary service, and developing lasting customer confidence became its ideals and the blueprint for success.  Wacoal has been featured on numerous television programs such as The Oprah Winfrey Show, The View, NBC’s TODAY, Entertainment Tonight, and the Ellen DeGeneres Show to discuss the benefits of great fitting bras, shapewear, and other lingerie.

In 2009, Wacoal successfully launched b.tempt’d by Wacoal. This exciting lingerie brand was designed to entice the young-minded woman with sexy, sophisticated and flirty lingerie. b.tempt’d also offers Wacoal’s signature trademarks of exceptional quality, fit, and service. To date, b.tempt’d has been enthusiastically received by women of all ages and continues to evolve to meet her lingerie needs and desires.

Giving back to society is a major part of Wacoal’s philosophy. In 1999, the company began an initiative to fight breast cancer by raising awareness about the disease. The development of the Awareness Bra Program began with one simple bra.  Its prevalent pink ribbon flag serves as a daily reminder that women should take care of themselves and an informative hangtag provides details on how to administer a self examination. Additionally, donations are made based on Awareness Bra sales during October Breast Cancer Awareness month to Susan G. Komen for the Cure. Today there are 4 unique Awareness bras appealing to women of different figure types, each passing along a vital educational message.  In 2001, Wacoal launched the next phase of this initiative with the Fit for the Cure® events. For every woman professionally fit by a Wacoal specialist at a Fit for the Cure® event a donation is made to Komen with no purchase necessary. Now in its 10th year and known as Fi(gh)t for the Cure™, Wacoal continues to hold more than 1000 events across the United States each year. Over the past ten years these grassroots efforts have generated over two million dollars in donations to Komen and educated millions of women about breast cancer.

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Important Dates

August

September

October

For detailed information about industry events, visit www.techexchange.com

Thanks to the techexchange site sponsors
Apparel Magazine, Gerber Technology, Lawson, Lectra, Methods Workshop and Reach Technologies.

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A Look Ahead in the Newsletter


SPESA Expo 2010 Review

View previous editions of this newsletter

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